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AIDS Walk Africa 2008: Talia's Blog
6/14/2008
Follow along on AIDS Walk Africa!
Introduction | Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5
Talia Rosenberg of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, received exciting news this spring when she found out she would be attending AIDS Walk Africa 2008 in Swaziland as the Foundation's first-ever AIDS Walk Africa Youth Scholarship recipient.
Talia, who is 24 years old and will begin medical school at Yale University this fall, competed for the scholarship in an essay competition with dozens of other young adults from around the world. In her winning essay, Talia wrote movingly about her commitment to ending pediatric AIDS, including her time spent researching a vaccine for HIV at the Aaron Diamond AIDS Research Center.
Talia will document her experience on AIDS Walk Africa through a daily blog. Please follow her adventures on this journey of a lifetime between June 30 and July 4. Check this page soon for more from Talia!
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Talia's blog - Day 1
After a fairly long journey (Uruguay -> Argentina -> Brazil -> South Africa -> Swaziland) I am thrilled to finally be here and joining the members and staff of AIDS Walk Africa 2008. Sadly, my luggage was a little less fortunate and is lost somewhere on one of two continents. But all of the others have been very generous with their clothes, shampoo and socks and I am hoping my pack will arrive soon.
Until then, I am happy to subsist on this generosity, as the excitement and enthusiasm of everyone here more than makes up for it. It has been wonderful to meet the faces behind the emails and the phone calls, all of the people who have worked so hard to put this walk together both from the U.S. and from Africa. I feel so grateful to be able to join them and all of the other walkers in this incredibly unique and exciting experience.
After a delicious buffet lunch this afternoon, we convened for our orientation; a chance to meet one another, find out where we will be walking and learn more about the Swazi culture. Our guide, John, described the way Swazi marriage works (unlimited wives, but you must be able to afford them), the nature of the national dances (there are some that may only be performed during certain ceremony at certain times of the year) and the ritual pilgrimage that all Swazi men make to the ocean. I am really looking forward to learning more from him in the coming days.
Following the orientation, a group of young girls aged between 6 and 12 performed for us in a dance their leader described as “traditionally Swazi, but with some pop.” It was fabulous. The girls were animated, enthusiastic and tremendously talented. I am really looking forward to meeting and interacting with the children here in Swaziland and this afternoon’s performance was a great way to begin.
Tonight we have a more formal meal here at our lodge, and rumor has it that there will be many local officials in attendance, including the Swaziland Minister of Health. I hope that they speak about their work and their experiences, as there is so much I would like to learn.
I am off to the pre-dinner reception and am looking forward to getting to know the other walkers and staff a little better. Then it’s time for bed (it’s been a while!) before an early awakening tomorrow morning for our first day of walking!
Talia's blog - Day 2
Talia Rosenberg |
The first day is over and it seems like ages since we arrived yesterday. This morning began with a visit from Maisie, woman-about-town (she is officially the walker liaison, but seems to be everywhere at once), to get us out of our oh-so comfortable beds. But the breakfast buffet beckoned and we were not disappointed. My roommates were thrilled with the coffee and I feasted on fresh fruit and muffins.
At about 7:30 a.m. we were ushered into our stable of white vans and driven to the trailhead to begin the day’s walk. There, we were met by a delegation of local representatives, including the local chief and matron (the latter is a senior representative of the ministry of health – something like a general in the army). They greeted us in their native tongue, siSwati, and sent us on our way with a prayer and some good wishes.
The morning’s walk was about nine kilometers and very pleasant; gently rolling hills and a cool breeze made for perfect walking conditions. I spent much of the morning getting to know Clement, a local 26-year old who is very active in regional politics. He told me of the need to find activities to engage the Swazi youth, as the poverty and lack of food led to frustrated and disengaged teenagers. This in turn, Clement informed me, meant that they were “spending too much time together,” resulting in teenage pregnancies and the risk of contracting HIV. He works with local groups to find other activities with which to engage these youth, including dance troupes, drama programs and the hope of creating a farming cooperative.
We stopped at around 11:30 a.m. and decamped to hear from more local ministry and Foundation representatives. They described the work they have been doing on the ground along with some of the challenges they face, including the need to increase their “human capital.” In the years since I have been following the progression of the AIDS pandemic, every discussion of a simple plan to fight the disease in Africa gets caught on the difficulty of finding sufficient staff for implementation. In Swaziland, they are working towards a solution by training local nurses to in turn instruct others in the protocols for their prevention of mother-to-child transmission (PMTCT) programs.
Talia Rosenberg (2-R) walks with Jenn Carr (R) on the road to the Luyengo Clinic in the Manzini region, Swaziland. |
Later that afternoon we arrived at the Luyengo Clinic, one of 45 national clinics with which the Foundation is strongly involved. We were met by a delegation of teenagers in matching T-shirts who high-fived us as we entered the clinic gates. There, the clinic matron presented us with a poster detailing the progress the staff has made in the last year. As a scientist, it was exciting to hear a research presentation here in Swaziland, though the roosters crowing in the background were an unusual addition. The results they had to show us were impressive – of the 166 at risk infants (defined as an infant born to an HIV-positive woman) seen at the clinic, 159 were born free from the disease. Clearly, the PMTCT protocols are working.
We finished the day with a visit to a local crafts fair, where my fellow walkers and I feasted our eyes on countless candles, scarves and batiks. I was tempted to take home a large woolen blanket, but given that I still am luggage-less, I thought it prudent to wait for a suitcase before I purchase any large items. Now it is off to bed in preparation for another early morning and a second wonderful day on our walk.
Talia's blog - Day 3
Talia surrounded by schoolchildren at the Mphembekati Primary School. |
One aspect of the walk I have been pleasantly surprised by is the diversity of age, experience and background of the walkers. Some are frequent travelers, while others have never been outside of North America. They are teachers, bankers, managers and philanthropists. Everyone seems to have a different reason for being here and it is fascinating to learn a little bit about each person’s story.
This morning’s walk provided a perfect opportunity to do just that. For me, it meant the chance to speak with Pam Barnes, the president and CEO of the Foundation. Pam told me about her experience as a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer in Paraguay and described the difficulties and satisfaction of implementing change there. We discussed how valuable we find it to hear a primary account of the challenges faced by the communities here, in contrast with the often scientifically neutralized descriptions one receives from afar. Because of her unique role, Pam is able to view the pandemic from a multitude of angles and I felt very privileged to be allowed a rare glimpse from her perspective.
After a lovely picnic lunch on the grounds of the Mkhulamini Clinic, we gathered in the waiting room for a presentation by one of the staff nurses. Mumsy, the woman who spoke with us, could not have been much older than myself and impressed us all with her poise and eloquence. She provided us with statistics on their patient population, many of which were heartbreaking. Of the 186 pregnant women who received HIV counseling and testing between April 2007 and March 2008, 96 were HIV positive. These numbers are hard to internalize and I have to keep telling myself this means that more than one out of every two pregnant women I see could be carrying the virus.
Talia jumps over a stream on the way to Mphembekati Primary School. |
My awareness of the prevalence of the disease was further strengthened a few minutes later. We had moved to the local primary school to meet with the students. As I turned the corner, I was staggered by the number of students waiting outside for us. Dressed alike, they waved, giggled and generally made us feel welcome. A group of young girls then entered in their traditional dress. They were focused and in sync, but what made the moment so powerful were the lyrics of the songs they sung; “…why am I so skinny? I need to get tested for HIV.” I am aware of the statistics; the number of Swazis who have the disease, the number who are expected to contract it. But it is still heartbreaking to listen to little girls sing of this fate, so cognizant of the risk they face.
Even writing about it now, this awareness of the disease is a frightening and powerful realization, a token of my time here I will not easily forget. It is moments like those that shift my day from a pleasant walk in a beautiful country to an experience that will impact my understanding of HIV/AIDS immeasurably.
Talia's Blog - Day 4
Talia meets a mother and her baby in the Vilagati Homestead. |
In the last three days, a trend has become apparent. Each morning, we are greeted by a vivacious individual before we begin our day. When we walk by the houses, we see others waving as they go about their daily chores. At the clinics, the staff do an incredible job of introducing us to their work and their success. And in almost every case, these individuals are women. Women appear to be fighting this pandemic; they are the ones struggling hardest against the grip of this disease.
This morning, we passed through a homestead headed by a widow. Before we entered, our guide gave us a brief description of the customs of a Swazi household. A husband can have several wives, and he is free to bring his girlfriends to his home. Women are not allowed to eat the liver, tongue, or feet of the cows they slaughter, for fear that they will become stronger, more outspoken, and faster than their men. These are all elements of the Swazi culture and heritage, elements I will not argue with.
However, I do take issue with the seemingly limited involvement of the men in fighting the progression of HIV in Swaziland. There are some exceptions – young men like Clement, or elders who support our presence in their country. But I cannot escape the sensation that the role of the men is frequently limited, rather than the persistent effort of women.
This afternoon, I was privileged to meet three women, Sibongile, Thoko, and Khetsiwe, who volunteer as members of a local committee sponsored by the Ministry of Health. There are 20 members in the group, all women. They educate the members of their villages about the disease, encourage the community to discover their HIV status, and tend to the terminally ill patients among them. Sibongile has eight children to raise, Thoko has been a widow for 11 years and has five children, and Khetsiwe has to feed and care for her own seven children, in addition to those of her husband’s other wives. Conquering the challenges of their daily life is accomplishment enough, and yet these women also find the strength to stand up and fight against HIV.
Talia meets children along the road. |
When we went to the clinic this afternoon, the nurse informed us that only one out of every 100 individuals they screen for HIV is male. Khetsiwe told me that the “men will not go for the test.” The posters in the clinics promote the involvement of husbands and partners and it is clear that there is a local awareness of this need. But if there is anything I wish we could accomplish here, it would be increased and active engagement among men in this country.
Luckily, there is hope. This afternoon also included a dance performance by a group of boys who urged the audience to “…be better parents. Don’t get AIDS and make your children orphans.” These young men and the others I have met on our walk are the future and the promise of an AIDS-free Swaziland. As we so frequently hear — let us pray.
Talia's Blog - Day 5
Talia builds a jungle gym at Mkhulamini Clinic. |
This morning, we headed to a local clinic to help build a covered shelter for visiting patients and a playground for the children who might accompany them. As I whiled away the morning with a hammer in hand, I reflected upon my first trip to Africa. I thought about something Jennifer Fox, a board member and walker, mentioned last night in a speech she gave. She shared that before her first trip to Africa she had mentally prepared herself for scenes similar to those we frequently see on television; images of sad, hungry children and desolate families. But when she actually arrived here, she was surprised by the joy and hope that she witnessed. This comment resonated with me, as I had undergone a similar experience. I have spent these past few days in a country with the highest prevalence of HIV in the world. And yet the children I have met here are friendly, curious, and motivated. Their parents are resourceful and determined to change the face of disease in their country.
There is a long way to go before Swaziland can live free of the shadow of this terrible epidemic, but I am certain that it can be done. With the help of organizations like the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation, I truly believe that we can impact the progression of this disease in our lifetime, something of which I was not convinced a week ago. Through programs like the prevention of mother-to-child transmission (PMTCT), we can keep newborns from contracting the virus. Through education, we can keep our youth from becoming victims of the disease. And through treatment, we can maintain the health of those living with HIV. There is no country more ravaged by this disease and yet no place that has inspired me with more hope for the future.
Talia Rosenberg (R) plants a tree with Foundation board member Jennifer Fox (L). |
At the end of the day, as we were saying goodbye to the clinic staff and local ministry officers, I glanced over at the playground we had built that day. We had hammered, sawed, painted and fussed, hoping to create a space that would engage and entertain. What I saw was wholly gratifying. The space was filled with children, swinging on the tire-swings, climbing through the jungle gym and generally exploring their new space.
As we left the community build site a bit later, I overheard someone comment in amazement about the amount it is possible to accomplish in a single day. It was true, we had certainly altered the landscape of that clinic. But while the work we did today was important, this comment led me to contemplate the change accomplished by the individuals working here, not in a day or a week, but over a much longer, much slower period. I silently thanked the nurses who serve a population far too large for their resources, the teachers who educate their students on the risks of the HIV and the volunteers who care for their neighbors who are slowly dying of AIDS. They continue to fight the disease in order to ensure that the children I saw this afternoon will come of age under different circumstances; healthy and with infinite possibilities ahead of them.
I am so grateful to have had this opportunity to share my thoughts on my experience here in Swaziland and more importantly, the opportunity to have come at all. In the words of Edward R. Murrow, “Good night, and good luck.”
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